Interaction of edge waves with swell on a beach

Joo Lee, Kwi and Shugan, I. and Jung Sun, An and Purini, R. (2006) Interaction of edge waves with swell on a beach. Il nuovo cimento C, 29 (4). pp. 487-494. ISSN 1826-9885

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Excitation of edge waves on a beach by incoming swell is considered on the basis of shallow-water model. Subharmonic resonance mechanism of interaction is analyzed by multi-scaled expansion asymptotic techniques. The generation of edge waves between wave breakers is found to have a dynamic threshold. It is defined by intensity and frequency of incoming swell, geometry of a shore zone. Nonlinear no stationary wave solutions for the envelope of interacting edge waves are described by generalized Sine-Gordon model. An infinite set of exact solutions are received by the Lamb method for the phase synchronism regime of wave’s interaction.

Item Type: Article
Uncontrolled Keywords: Ocean waves and oscillations
Subjects: 500 Scienze naturali e Matematica > 550 Scienze della Terra > 551 Geologia, Idrologia, Meteorologia
Depositing User: Marina Spanti
Date Deposited: 19 Mar 2020 14:40
Last Modified: 19 Mar 2020 14:40

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